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Wed, 07 Apr 2021 16:53:13 -0400 last edited: Sun, 21 May 2023 09:22:57 -0400

Jason Cook

jason@hub.inktada.com

Top frame complete. Now to insulate.

3D Printer Customization 3D-Printing

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Thu, 08 Apr 2021 20:18:45 -0400 last edited: Thu, 08 Apr 2021 20:33:33 -0400

Jason Cook

jason@hub.inktada.com

Enclosure complete and insulated. Insulation is not final, but good enough for testing!

Tested with ABS, and it prints AWESOME. This is by far one of cleanest prints I have ever had (with any material).

I then slowly ramped temperature of enclosure to 70Â°C, hotend to 400Â°C, and print bed to 145Â°C. I then extruded some PEKK for the first time!!!

My first attempt at printing was terrible as I didn't have the settings dialed in, but still produced a completed part, but unusable.

My second attempt is printing right now and it looks perfect. It is small parts that hold the hotend to the print carriage - AKA first failure point.

My goal is to reprint ALL print carriage parts with PEKK as they get really hot since the hotend is there. This will help me get all the settings perfect before printing rocket parts. It is also insurance that the printer will continue to function as I don't think the current parts will hold up to continued heat. I don't think the polycarbonate carbon fiber I purchased has high heat quality settings as the parts feel soft(er) with continued heat.

Once I have the print carriage parts complete, I'll likely reprint the H-bar brackets, z-wheel guides, read idlers, and lead screw brackets. Everything else remains cooler, but there could be a few more parts that need to be replaced.

I'll share some images tomorrow.

Fri, 09 Apr 2021 18:27:48 -0400

FourOh-LLC

fouroh-llc@hubzilla.factoryfouroh.net

What kinda accuracy are you targeting?

The planar accuracy off the build surface is no indicator how the material going to behave. I am not sure about polymers but I do know that metals do not care if they are forged in a furnace from scrap or in a 3D printer from powder they all behave the same, along their temperature curve.

As the matter of fact, melting metal takes ( and stores) so much energy that the ambient is virtually cancelled all throughout the liquid state.. I think the crystallization is "designed" by controlling the ambient (like dipping red-hot iron into water).

It's been over 30 years I been through my metallurgy training, but I guess you are confident how the material going to solidify.. How?

Fri, 09 Apr 2021 21:26:26 -0400

Jason Cook

jason@hub.inktada.com

There is a ton of resources on the net that define exactly what you need to do with lessons learned, improvements, and maximizing internal structure of the material when printing with these high-end materials.

PEKK is my first choice of high end materials because it is forgiving since you anneal to finalize the internal structure. #^https://www.additivemanufacturing.media/articles/ultem-peek-or-pekk-choosing-between-high-temperature-plastics It also requires less ambient temperature, which in my case helps until I have parts that can withstand higher temperature. Once parts are replaced, I'll work with tougher materials once this one is under my belt and I find a need.

Right now, I'm still dialing in on the settings for using the filament with my printer but it is getting very close. As far as dimensional accuracy, the parts are a drop in replacement for existing parts. I align the parts so I can see through the drill holes and everything is ideal. I can measure the accuracy with my digital caliper and minutely adjust after configuration for clean printed parts is complete.

From a strength standpoint, I will perform some stress tests later to confirm adhesion between layers and also strength of a single layer. Right now, my goal is to insure my printer does not fail, so I'm not printing stress test parts until I replace existing core components. I will say that they feel very strong and the the bonding between layers and filament lines is excellent. I'll have no problem using these parts in the printer, that's for sure.

I'm sure more modifications to the printer will occur, but baseline is being proven now.

Fri, 09 Apr 2021 22:35:14 -0400

FourOh-LLC

fouroh-llc@hubzilla.factoryfouroh.net

Thanks for the link, and it underscores my doubts: " If the crystalline structure cools too rapidly, it creates additional thermal stress and more warping. "
At my daytime job we x-ray everything we build for medical/military, as the solder-joint forming is unpredictable under even the best followed reflow profile, due to gasing. On the PCBA we have voids not warping, as tin is such as fluid metal there is no "crystallization" issues. The stuff you are working with are very different, and both voids and crystallization could be an issue.

I am going to follow what you do because I would of course like to print in something more substantial than PLA - but I am a beginner, and PLA is just the right stuff for me. I am just beginning to leave some stuff I print on the porch, exposing to rain, sun, and all the abuse by Mother Nature. To see how it behaves.

This is some really exciting stuff - I think it feels the same as the discovery of cement in ancient Rome! All of the sudden there was a material that would bond on the level it was never experienced before, and it did not take anything excitingly new - it used the same materials in a different way.